Flaxen

www.flaxen.co.nz
facebook.com/flaxen
Physical Address:  4 Wallis Street, Raglan, Waikato
Operating Since:  2004

Mistral Wray

What are you all about?
I direct and design the label Flaxen.  We reference New Zealand's unusual perspective, our music, our beautiful resourceful people & the flora and fauna grown on the West Coast of the North Island.  Our design walks the line between our rural lives and our city lives.
We are patriotic in a good way.


What kind of clothes do you make?
Our designs are generally simple, uncluttered with an eye to silhouettes and texture.  We use 100% cottons, merinos, silk and I really love viscose that is made from wood pulp.  I also love a good retro print in vibrant colours although they're hard to find.  Our detailing is pretty selective.  I love vintage buttons and lace trims.
We also make our own jewellery range that works beautifully with the clean lines of the garments so the overall look is offbeat, sexy and stylish & most importantly, easy to wear.  We are also in the process of a collaboration with a NZ artist for a range of T-shirts for children and adults.


Who makes your clothes?
I source the most beautiful fabric I can, then design and cut the garments by hand.  I have found some lovely women to sew, who have their own home workshops.  We have a really personal way of working, usually involving a discussion of what we're doing & our best approach to new designs.  I value their input and feel lucky to have a great team to work with.


Who sells your clothes?
We sell exclusively from our shop/workshop in Raglan.  We enjoy the shopping experience with our customers.  We are able to help people find the right things for them & love the feedback as to what people are looking for.  We are now ready to supply a select number of retailers;  slow and steady has been our approach.


Can we buy them online?
Our website is being built at present but we are on Facebook so we can have dialogue with our customers.  And by the end of the year, our site will be up and running.


What price range are your clothes in?
Our garments start at $69, ranging in price mostly dictated by cost of fabric.


Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?
I think cost has been the bottom line & competing with cheap mass production makes it look attractive.  It's also pretty difficult to find skilled sewers in NZ and have that consistent quality.  I feel we have been steered into being consumers more than is good for us.  I believe there is a generation coming through now who see that being a contributor, rather than just a consumer, is healthier and more satisfying for our well-being and our world.  So I'm hoping to be able to employ some younger tradespeople as time goes on.


What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?
Expanding on a Buy NZ Made campaign with a Make NZ Buy NZ campaign.  Encouraging people to learn these skills again would be great & has the ability to provide people with a viable living that can work around their family, etc.


Anything to add?
I guess, at the end of the day, we just need to believe in what we do - carry on making beautiful things and setting a good example.

Tamaasa

tamaasa.com
facebook.com/tamaasa
twitter.com/tamaasaclothing
Physical location:  134 Piha Road, Piha, Waitakere City
(This is not a retail shop so please phone first.)
Operating Since:  2009 

Tabitha Maxwell

What are you all about?

What kind of clothes do you make?

Tamaasa is a collaborative label (formerly known as Earthage) founded in 2009 by myself and my business partner & fellow designer, James Bristow.  Since then Tamaasa has become an infusion of both our backgrounds in music and fine arts placed alongside our personal ethics; which look at breaking the boundaries of sustainable clothing & creating an avenue for people that like to question how their clothes are made - where and what environmental impact they have created in production.

James Bristow

It is important that, as designers, we constantly question what impact we are creating on, not only the earth, but also our own health & the health of others by trying to avoid anything made with harsh pesticides, chemicals, dyes and unfair trade practices.  Our clothing ranges have developed up until now to feature large chunky knitted scarves, skeanies, gloves, organic cotton basics, merino knitted capes and winter luxury items; with winter 2012 being developed now with lots of exciting new trends.

Who makes your clothes?

At present, we manufacture all of our own clothing in NZ, by hand knitters and organic cotton knit manufacturers here in Auckland.  I design and create all of our patterns & sample everything which is generally then outsourced to be made by small manufacturing businesses in New Zealand; and occasionally we have one-off items made here at Piha, or finished by myself or James.

Who sells your clothes?  Can we buy them online?

We currently stock at TAll in Tairua & have an online shop.  As this is our first full year in production, we have been approached by many new stockists in the past six months & look forward to being stocked around Auckland and NZ next season.

What price range are your clothes in?

As we are an eco company & all of our fabrics are sourced ethically and from NZ, as a rule, we tend to use very high-end fine fabrics and fibres such as 100% Alpaca fibre which can be very expensive to source.  These luxury fabrics place our label in the high end of clothing labels, with our clothing pricing from anywhere between $45 and $400.

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?

As a designer that is passionate about not only looking at fair trade but also environmental issues, I have to say that it is almost impossible to develop everything here in NZ, with the technology we have available.  In the 80s, a lot of our manufacturing was sent overseas when labour was found to be cheaper in places such as China & only now is it slowly building up here in New Zealand again; so the costs to produce a garment here is extremely high, even when you consider charges for freight etc from overseas.  NZ also doesn't have the technology to apply to so many different manufacturing processes that designers use everyday.

Fortunately though, times seem to be changing & people are more interested in paying a little bit extra for something that is very well made here on our shores.  One thing I can say for NZ manufacturers is that they tend to have fantastic standards of production, with the quality of garment being superior to overseas manufacturers.

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?

Stop signing all of these trading agreements with overseas parties & start looking at developing our manufacturing sectors here in NZ.  It is a sad reality that New Zealand is one of the most expensive places to live, partly due to the fact that we export most of our goods & I believe NZers have such a great ability to create and work hard that we need to start introducing technology for digital printing here, large scale knitting facilities & developing green sustainable fabrics.  The eco trends of overseas designers is a huge sector that hasn't even been touched on in New Zealand & developing eco fabrics here would be a nice advancement from the Government, I feel.

Anything to add?

As consumers, try to always look at how your garments are made & where they are made.  It is so easy to turn a blind eye to the harsh reality of how your clothing is made.  For example, children in overseas countries are in some cases exposed to extremely toxic chemicals, all for the sake of a knit tee that you may pay $5 for.  An item may be cheaper to buy, but in the process, you are very possibly contributing to unsafe farming practices, unfair trading, and chemicals that eventually may affect your own health as well.  At least, by keeping our clothing manufactured here in New Zealand, you can be aware of how it is made.

Kōkō

www.koko-nzconceptstore.com
facebook.com/kōkō
twitter.com/_K_O_K_O
Physical Address:  75 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris, France
Operating Since:  17 September 2010

Catherine McMahon (left)
and Diane Pernet 

What are you all about?
Showcasing NZ fashion in Europe.
I only stock New Zealand labels.
Currently about 80% of the stock is made in NZ.  I am working towards having all the stock made in NZ, and hope to do so by the next season here.


What NZ-made labels do you sell?
World, Zambesi, Karen Walker, Trelise Cooper and Kate Sylvester
- though they don't all make everything in NZ.


Can we buy them online?  Not through me currently but I am looking at an option for this, as I now have some customers who are not Paris-based.


What price range are your clothes in?
From 100 to 600 euros.


Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?  Cost, I think, is the main reason.


Anything to add?
The French generally love New Zealanders & I have found that they will pay a little more for a garment that is made in NZ; particularly if there are only a few of each piece.  On this basis, I have no more than five of any piece in the shop.

Buttonlove

www.buttonlovekids.com
facebook.com/buttonlove
twitter.com/buttonlove

Physical Address:  Mt Albert, Auckland

Operating Since:  2008

Cat's daughter Charlie
in a Buttonlove dress

What are you all about?

Buttonlove is a New Zealand made baby label.

What kind of clothes do you make?

High quality clothing for babies and toddlers. Buttonlove garments are fashion forward as well as functional.  I like to use natural fibres such as cotton and merino fabrics.

Who makes your clothes?

I use Bobby-Lee Wadsworth to make up my samples then I spread out the production between her and my manufacturer Stitch Perfect.  It is very important to have people you can relate to, as well as delivering the high standard that Buttonlove is known for.

Who sells your clothes?

I have stockists all over New Zealand from little boutiques to the bigger department stores.

Can we buy them online?

Yes, on my website as well as some of my stockists' websites.

What price range are your clothes in?

$30 to $85; it depends on the season as well because merino is more expensive than cotton.

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?

The cost is so much cheaper than producing the same garments here in New Zealand.  Saying that, the product is never as good & you can't oversee the process and quality control.

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?

They need to help new businesses that are trying to get off the ground, especially those that create jobs here in NZ. We need to keep manufacturing in this country and create work for the many talented people we have here.  I think the Government could bring in some kind of tax break for staying NZ-made.

Anything to add?

Buttonlove is proud and committed to stay a New Zealand made label.

Organic Baby

www.organicbaby.co.nz
facebook.com/organicbaby
Physical Address:  127 Jackson Street, Petone, Wellington
Operating Since:  2008

Lianne Earles

What are you all about?
Our focus is on natural fibres, predominantly organic cotton and merino.  Our preference is to stock NZ-made over imported labels where possible.  We also stock preloved clothing in keeping with our whole eco-friendly philosophy.


What NZ-made labels do you sell?
APT Creationz, Buttonlove, Bev Lees, Nettle & Wolf, Strawberry Jam and locally-made knitwear.  Our organic cotton label, Pureborn Organic is NZ-designed but, for practical reasons, grown and manufactured in India.
We also stock NZ-made accessories - beanies, bibs, baby wipes, shoes, nappy bags, wooden teethers and toys, etc.


Can we buy them online?
Yes, you can buy them online!


Do you have your own label?  Who makes your clothes?
We don't manufacture any of our own clothing but we do have a very sweet "kiwi" bodysuit in organic cotton which is screenprinted locally using water-based inks.


What price range are your clothes in?
From $15 for an organic cotton beanie to $79 for knitwear.


Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?
It is cost and price driven.  Many clothing labels manufacture overseas to simply keep their prices at a level customers are prepared to pay.  We have stocked beautiful NZ-made ranges which just haven't sold until end-of-season clearance.  It's sad.


What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?
It's a difficult situation.  If the economy was in better shape and wages were higher, more people could afford to choose NZ-made over shopping at the chain stores where everything is made in China.  
I think more support should be given to small businesses and there should be financial incentives to stay NZ-made.  Introducing higher tariffs and duties on imported goods would slow the flood of imported goods.

SABATINI

www.sabatini.co.nz

facebook.com/sabatini
twitter.com/sabatini

Physical Address:  180-182 Stoddard Road, Mt Roskill, Auckland

Operating Since:  1958 (Operating as Sonny Elegant Knitwear)

SABATINI was started in 1991 under our parent company, Sonny Elegant Knitwear.

Margi and Tony Milich
Creative & Managing Director

What are you all about?

What kind of clothes do you make?

The SABATINI feeling is for a sexy naturalness and designed for women who want easy-care knit dressing.  Distinctive colour palettes and intricate fabric design content are an integral part of each collection.  Many of the yarns used are combined for originality & are sustainable eco-friendly derivatives.  With this foundation, our company has evolved into a highly successful international fashion label; exporting directional and creative designer knit fashion all over the world.

SABATINI's reputation centres around a Made in New Zealand philosophy with each garment hand cut, hand linked & hand finished for quality in leading edge knit design.

Who makes your clothes?

We have our own on-site Knitwear Factory where both the fabric and garments are designed and manufactured right from raw materials.

Who sells your clothes?  Can we buy them online?

We sell to various boutiques, currently focusing on the NZ and Australian markets, as well as having our own E-boutique.

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?

3 years or so, it became quite popular for brands to outsource manufacturing because of the benefits of good quality at low prices.  As well as this, there has been a gradual loss of the older, skilled workforce in New Zealand; which forces brands to source better quality elsewhere.  I think this is what initially sent a lot of manufacturers overseas.  In the last year, however, this has changed; there have been a lot of price increases overseas, lessening the benefits.

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?

When the Government introduced the free trade agreement with China, it seems they have essentially given up trying to keep manufacturing in New Zealand.  With this policy in place, it is very hard to compete with locally made goods, which is a shame.