Minnie + Ree

www.minnieree.com
minnieree.blogspot.co.nz
facebook.com/MinnieReeSmith
Physical Address:  I am based on the Kapiti Coast.  My business is web-based but I do have a stall at Underground Designer Market on Wellington's waterfront most Saturdays 10am - 4pm.  I also go to other markets and these are notified on my website.
This year I am looking to be in Auckland a lot more!
Operating since:  My first website went live in June 2007, I had been working on the business part time since June 2006.

Maree Smith

What are you all about?  
What kind of clothes do you make?
I believe that wearing lovely clothing that fits easily helps make women feel good about themselves. At Minnie + Ree I design clothes that are full of colour, pattern and touch; clothes that are flattering and individual.  

Wherever possible I stick with my two flexi-sizes: Small is NZ 8-10-12 and Average is 14-16-18.

It all started with Sonsie swimwear – swimwear for women with a larger bust.  Sonsie swimwear is bright, colorful and flexi-sized with a design that is chockfull of tricks to make the boobs look smaller and to flatter the rest of the body.  The range includes the Sonsie tankini and Sonsie swimskirt to cover the least favorite parts of the body and each coordinating piece is sold separately to allow the woman to choose the size and what she wants to reveal or cover when wearing a swimsuit.  I then created a range of merino scarves.  They are made to be beautiful and practical.  For example the hoodie scarf can be a hood, an infinity scarf or a shrug. 

Minnie + Ree skirts are the latest creation.  The skirts are made from designer cotton fabrics and I choose patterns that are interesting and colourful.  They are fastened with snaps which enable the wearer to do up as many of the snaps as they want so the skirt can be worn high on the waist, lower on the hips or during any changes in weight or shape.  They are cool to wear in the heat and winter-up nicely by adding tights and boots.  I am currently working on a dress that is flattering and easy to wear, a range of winter skirts and some new merino items...

Who makes your clothes?
I design and cut most of them.  I use a couple of home-based sewers on a regular basis.  My swimwear is made by Soma President Ltd in Hastings. They have also done a couple of other production runs for me. They were so helpful when I first set up and didn't know much about the industry - I strongly recommend them!

Who sells your clothes?  Can we buy them online?
I currently sell at Underground Market and online.  I am looking at having a few wholesale accounts this year.

What price range are your clothes in?
Currently $35 to $237

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?
If you are doing large runs, it is definitely cheaper.  I know some people who have manufactured overseas and it is a new skill to be learned.  I don't think I will become large enough to follow that path.  My goal is to build a network of outsource sewers and grow that way.  I am escaping from the corporate world and don't wish to set up a large company that needs me to be a manager! 

I do source most of my fabrics offshore and do it myself.  I can see a wide variety of fabrics that are all readily available, order online in whatever quantities I want, pay by credit card and have them on my doorstep in a week or two.  The NZ wholesalers just don't try to provide that type of service.  

What could the government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?
I think the future of NZ labels is in the SMEs and government can support that by encouraging people to buy NZ-made and providing business training and support.  Brands that get big need to go offshore to compete on the world market but there's plenty of smaller ones coming through.  I work voluntarily as a business mentor through Business Mentors New Zealand (and am also a mentoring client of theirs!) and I think having a mentor is so helpful.  This is a government subsidised service and is great.

Anything to add?
I am becoming more and more influenced by the desire to get away from cheap tacky clothing and books such as Overdressed by Elizabeth Cline help this.  I also love the work of Natalie Chanin of Alabama Studio and am attempting to bring hand stitched work into my clothing.  I recently cleaned out my wardrobe and threw out cheap junk but still kept and wear good clothing that is 10-15 years old.  Buying good quality pays off in the end and having something that is well made from good fabrics and a bit individual is the way to go!

JUIDfashion

www.juidfashion.com
www.juidfashion.com/blog
facebook.com/JUIDfashion
twitter.com/JUIDfashion
Physical Address:  Anywhere with a power-plug for the laptop 
& in close vicinity to caffeine. 
Operating since:  2009!!

James Upton

What are you all about? 
JUIDfashion was founded as a platform for creative license encompassing a number of genres; art, style, photography, progression but mostly fashion.  At first being a men-specific line with an androgynous feel, JUID has starting to do more women-specific pieces with each collection.  The focus however is definitely still on menswear.  All garments are designed and made in NZ, with an extreme level of attention to detail, giving JUID a high-end boutique feel.  Carefully selected cottons, denims,merinos & organic fabrics complement the cuts of these fashion-forward pieces.  Each piece tells an individual story, as well as combining with other garments to fit into the theme of the overall collection in which it sits.  With inspiration coming from many areas both inside and outside the fashion industry, JUID’s edgy but still commercial persona is testament to its growing popularity within the NZ fashion industry.  

What kind of clothes do you make? 
Mainly t-shirts, they are our bread and butter.  However, we do do a small range of jeans, cardigans, polos and shirts as well!!

Who makes your clothes? 
All are made locally in Auckland.  We love NZ MADE.

Who sells your clothes? 
Our biggest retailer at the moment is Needles & Threads in Ponsonby.

Can we buy them online?
Above and through our website.

What price range are your clothes in? 
Our standard print t-shirt is RRP $109. So yeah... fairly pricey, but you pay for quality don't you?!

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas? 
$$$$$$$$$$$ All about the "benjamins".  Although the savings never seem to filter down to the retailers and consumers...?  Some brands are making nice margins..! 

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ? 
Unfortunately I don't think there is anything the government can do. Countries like China and Bangladesh basically have the people resources to make clothing so cheap that NZ can not compete.  They could increase the tax of bring products back into NZ but that is going to hurt a lot of NZ businesses and the cost would probably just be passed onto the customers. It basically means only high end brands can be NZ made.  For us it is a nice point of difference compared to a lot of competing labels that are made off shore.

Anything to add?
We also love organic cotton!!
In an age when consumer products are breaking down the environment, it is important that everyone does what they can to help the cause.  The ultimate goal of “sustainable cotton” is to move sustainable production, manufacturing and use practices throughout the cotton value chain in order to create a healthy and profitable industry for growers, their communities, manufacturers, retailers and users of all cotton products. Besides the environmental benefits that chemical-free organic cotton offers, the quality of clothing produced from organic cotton is also substantially higher.  Organic cotton plants produce longer-stable cotton fibres, leading to stronger yarn and more durable fabrics.  Pesticide-free long-stable cotton also feels softer and more breathable against the skin. JUIDfashion sees this as the future of the “rag trade” & would like to be a part of it.

Design Cartel

www.missabigail.co.nz (This is my label's website. I only have a Facebook page for Design Cartel so far)
facebook.com/Miss-Abigail
facebook.com/designcartel.nz
Physical Address: 109 Willis St, Dukes Arcade, Wellington
Operating Since:  Shop has been open since Monday 5th November.  
I have been working on my own label for about 10 years.  I took a few years away from fashion for a bit of a career change to work in mental health & since moving to New Zealand, I am now completely all into it again.

What are you all about? I am all about meeting local New Zealand designers to share stories and help support each other.  I recently opened Design Cartel; a shop with about 15 designers, which always looking for more local talent.  Part of the reason I wanted to open a shop was so I can make whatever I want, when I want, without designing a year in advance. There aren't any wholesalers in Wellington so it makes it quite hard to source stuff so far in advance; then when you're ready to buy, you run the risk of a fabric not being available.

What kind of clothes do you make?
My designs are fashion forward, being quite girly and cute.  My recent range is toned down a little, compared to usual, to try and accommodate my designs to a wider range of people.  I love using bright colours and cute prints & I love velvet, with some of my pieces having a Victorian feel.

Who makes your clothes?  
My clothes are made in a factory in Napier called Sew Unlimited who are really lovely.

Who sells your clothes?  Can we buy them online? 
Currently they are only sold in my Design Cartel shop.  Online shop will be going live in the next couple of weeks.

What price range are your clothes in?  
My clothes range from $70 to $300 at the moment.  I am also looking into doing some Miss Abigail accessories soon, which may include brooches and scarfs.

What other NZ-made clothing labels do you sell?
Miss Abigail, Love Hotel, Beau, Desiree Clothing, Millicent, HLDB by Tina and twoWORLDS.

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?  
I think as it's cheaper & there just aren't too many places in New Zealand to get stuff made.

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?  
Support the current manufacturers in some way.  

Anything to add? 
I just recently found out the only manufacturer in Wellington is apparently closing down in the next couple of months which is really sad.

Jane Sutherland

www.janesutherland.co.nz

facebook.com/janesutherland

Physical Address:  State Highway 6, Kingston 9748, Central Otago

Operating Since:  Established in 2004

 

What are you all about?
When creating our womenswear collections, we take a disciplined approach.  We like to create well-cut, wearable garments that capture attention with clever detailing; pieces that are timeless and will still be in your closet for ten years.  It can be hard to create garments that are creative with a point of difference but yet commercial enough to sell - it’s a fine line.  I feel it depends on whether or not you like creating commercial simple clothes or living a more complicated life!  I feel fashion needs more creativity – it is often as though the main focus is on wearablity, which is most definitely important and is the lucrative part of the industry; however the art aspect should not be lost in the process.  At the end of the day we are not fulfilling a utilitarian function, we are extracting the unique remnants of an artist's imagination that marks the current movements and influences of our culture.  We are creating something that should spark curiosity.

 

Who makes your clothes?
We use a local CMT factory in the South Island and skilled outworkers – it is nice to be able to have strict quality control and a close working relationship with the manufacturers.  Everything is NZ-made, including accessories – all jewellery is handcrafted by local jewelers and artists.

 

Who sells your clothes?
We wholesale to 8 stores nationwide & have just launched an online boutique which we are hoping to build on overtime.

 

What price range are your clothes in?
Anywhere between $90- $500.  Sometimes a fully lined woollen coat may exceed this; with handcrafted metal detailing on a lot of the garments, this can make things a little more expensive but unique!

 

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?
At the end of the day I believe it all comes down to cost – this mainly only works for mass produced lines.

 

What could the Government do to help clothing labels keep it in NZ?
Encourage New Zealanders to buy NZ-made & to advertise and educate people on the importance of supporting our skilled workers, designers and manufacturers.  Reintroduce a Buy NZ Made campaign supporting the fact that eventually if everyone is forced to move offshore, the trade in NZ will drop and where will we be left?!

Anything to add?

It is great to see clothes that are ten years old and people are still wearing them  It's an old-fashioned idea that we build things to last and I think we should all take a lot of pride in that and hold onto it for as long as we can and for further generations.

Even in the Dark

www.eveninthedark.com
facebook.com/eveninthedarkstudio
twitter.com/eveninthedark
Follow us! Like us!
Physical Address:  We're based in Ponsonby, Auckland.  We moved back to New Zealand from London almost a year ago and we love being home.
Operating since:  We launched our brand and online store in October 2012.  We are brand new.

Cara Hutchinson

What are you all about?
What kind of clothes do you make?
We design beautiful, uncommon clothes for women. Even in the Dark is a new label, and we're building it piece by piece, with new products dropping into store all the time.  Expect limited edition dresses, graphic t-shirts, sweatshirts and beautifully cut jackets.
We believe that quality and design integrity are fundamental to our customers' happiness and satisfaction - so we source the very best materials that we can and manage all of our design and production in-house.

We also want to do some good for others, so a portion of all our sales will always be donated to a charitable cause.  Right now we're supporting Room to Read, a charity that assists children in Africa and Asia to learn to read and to receive an education.  We are particularly excited about the Girls Education Programmes that Room to Read supports - through these programmes 13,000 girls this year will receive assistance to attend schools in locations where poverty, family situations and cultural traditions mean that these girls might not otherwise be in education.  We think this is such a fantastic cause.

Who makes your clothes?
All of our garments are made in-house - we design, cut, sew, press and finish all our garments in our studio in Auckland.  It's incredibly important to us to have a really high quality product and to ensure that we are producing our clothes in an ethical and environmentally conscious way. Producing our garments in our own studio helps us to achieve this.

Who sells your clothes?  Can we buy them online?
Even in the Dark is available exclusively through our online store.  We're really excited about all the endless possibilities of building a brand and our store online.  It gives us an amazing platform to attract new customers from New Zealand and around the world - so far we've sent our dresses as far afield as London and Norway (and as locally as a couple of doors down the road).  We're really enjoying getting into the social media sphere too and we're excited by the fashion tech start ups that are popping up everywhere.  It's such an interesting time to start a company.

What price range are your clothes in?
Our items will be priced between $50 - $400.  The upper end of the price range includes items like our limited edition, menswear inspired Shirt Dresses in silks and amazing cottons in our store now for $350.  The lower end of our price range will include garments like our graphic t-shirts, which are coming soon to our online shop.

Why do you think NZ clothing labels outsource their manufacturing overseas?
We imagine NZ clothing labels take their production offshore primarily for economic reasons and possibly because it can be difficult to find bulk production facilities here.  We're really happy that we are able to offer NZ-made products.  If in the future our production needs outgrow our studio capability, we hope to be able to use NZ-based outworkers and CMTs for our production.

Anything to add?
Thanks for featuring Even in the Dark.  This blog is such a great resource for discovering New Zealand design.  We're excited by all the great labels we've read about in the Home Made/Keeping it in NZ archives.